Eichler siding replacement changes how a house reads from the street, because the vertical lines of the wall cladding are a large part of the architecture. Get the groove spacing, board width or texture wrong and even a careful remodel can look off. Get it right and new siding disappears into the design.
This guide covers what original mid-century siding was made of, how to tell whether it needs repair or replacement, how to match it in kind, which alternatives suit the style, and what to check while the walls are open, from insulation and bracing to wildfire details and old paint.
What the original siding is
The City of Palo Alto's Eichler design guidelines describe the typical exterior cladding on Eichlers as vertical tongue-and-groove redwood board or scored redwood plywood. There is no typical width of the boards or scoring, because the Eichler catalogue offered many widths, and some houses also use concrete block. Original paint colors were earth tones, with brighter colors on accent features such as lintels, exposed carport beams and doors.
The National Register nomination for Palo Alto's Greenmeadow tract describes the siding there as vertical-grooved redwood plywood stained in earth-tone colors. Garage doors were finished with matching siding so they blended into the design, and similar siding was used for the fencing along the side lot lines.
Board widths, groove patterns and panel thicknesses can vary from tract to tract and even house to house, so measure what you have before you order anything. Our page on mid-century materials and construction describes the original palette in more detail.
Signs your siding needs attention
Siding rarely fails all at once. Walk the house with a flashlight and a small awl and look at these spots first:
The bottom edge of each wall. Where siding meets soil, paving, planters or a patio slab, it stays wet longest.
Below windows and sliding doors. Water that runs off glass collects at the sill and the panel edge below it.
Under roof edges with no gutter. Splash-back from a low-slope roof can soak the lower part of a wall year after year.
Panel seams and grooves. On plywood siding, look for layers separating, soft spots and paint that keeps failing in the same place.
Next to carport beams and fascia. Rot at a beam end or fascia board often spreads to the siding beside it.
Old patches. Mismatched panels from past repairs show where water got in before.
Soft wood that the awl sinks into easily usually means rot, not just weathered paint. A pest control inspection or a licensed contractor can tell you how far it goes.
Repair first, then replace in kind
Palo Alto's guidelines recommend keeping original cladding that is in good condition and, when replacing deteriorated cladding, not removing more than necessary. For replacement vertical boards, they recommend an in-kind match that is as close as possible in profile, dimensions and thickness, considering board width and depth, groove width and depth, and texture. Matching the original wood type, such as plywood or solid redwood, is preferred but not required if the new product gives the same appearance. The guidelines also encourage owners to look for local fabricators who can reproduce the vertical board or plywood siding.
A practical approach:
Remove one damaged piece carefully and keep it as a sample.
Record the groove spacing, groove width and depth, panel thickness and surface texture.
Look at neighboring houses from the same tract for clues if your own siding has been altered.
Ask suppliers or a millwork shop for a sample before ordering a full run.
Plan how the new siding meets windows, door trim, fascia and garage doors, since those joints are where a mismatch shows.
If a house has already lost its original cladding to stucco or another material, the same guidelines suggest considering recladding in new vertical boards to improve the property's integrity. Palo Alto's guidelines are voluntary, but they are a well-documented reference for owners anywhere. Our mid-century modern design guidelines page summarizes the principles.
Alternatives that suit the style, and materials to avoid
For walls that can't be matched in kind, Palo Alto's guidelines favor alternatives with a smooth surface that doesn't look busy. Horizontal wood boards are acceptable when they have a generally flat, smooth profile, but sawtooth clapboard is not appropriate for Eichlers. They advise against adding stone, brick and shingles to exterior walls. For new homes in Eichler neighborhoods, the guidelines list vertical siding, flush or channel wood siding, smooth stucco, fiber cement panels and flat metal panels as possible options, and advise avoiding clapboard, board-and-batten, shingles, textured stucco, corrugated metal, stone, brick and vinyl.
Historic districts take siding seriously. The Greenmeadow National Register evaluation treated shingles, stucco, plaster, brick, aluminum siding and vinyl siding on the front elevation as changes that count against a house. In one example from the nomination, shingles applied to half of the front elevation drew 8 points by themselves, out of the 12 that would mark a house as non-contributing.
While the wall is open: insulation, bracing, fire and old paint
Insulation. Palo Alto's guidelines point out that heat is lost through exterior walls even when windows are insulated, and suggest exploring options such as blown insulation that don't require removing the cladding. If the siding is coming off anyway, that is the time to insulate the wall cavities and add a weather-resistive barrier.
Bracing. California's earthquake disclosure law for older homes lists first-story walls without plywood or diagonal bracing among the weaknesses a seller must disclose if known. If walls are opened, ask a structural engineer whether structural panels or other bracing should go in before the new siding.
Wildfire. The California Department of Insurance's Safer from Wildfires program counts at least 6 vertical inches of noncombustible material at the base of exterior walls, such as brick, stone, fiber-cement siding or concrete, among its mitigation actions. If your house is in a fire hazard severity zone, ask your building department which exterior wall standards apply to a re-siding project.
Lead paint and asbestos. For homes built before 1978, the US EPA's Renovation, Repair and Painting rule requires contractors who disturb paint to be certified. Under the federal rule, exterior work that disturbs 20 square feet or less of painted surface counts as minor repair, but window replacement does not. The EPA also lists roofing and siding shingles among materials in older homes that may contain asbestos, which matters if a past owner added shingle siding over the original.
This is general information, not legal advice. Check permits and requirements with your city and a licensed contractor. For how siding fits into a larger plan, see our Eichler renovation guide.
Finish and color
Palo Alto's guidelines say the use of specific original colors is not required, but they prefer muted colors on the main walls, suggest darker earth tones, and recommend saving bright colors for accents such as lintels and doors. They also prefer one main color and one trim or accent color. Whatever you choose, finish all sides and cut edges of new boards or panels before installation, and keep the bottom edge clear of soil and mulch.
Frequently asked questions
What siding did Eichlers originally have?
According to Palo Alto's Eichler guidelines, the characteristic cladding was vertical tongue-and-groove redwood board or scored redwood plywood, with many board and scoring widths. Some houses also used concrete block.
Can I use fiber cement siding on an Eichler?
Palo Alto's guidelines list fiber cement panels among possible options for new homes in Eichler neighborhoods, and favor smooth, uncluttered surfaces. On an existing Eichler, an in-kind wood match is the first choice where possible. If you use another material, choose a smooth panel with vertical lines that echo the original.
Do I need a permit to replace siding?
It depends on your city and the scope of work. Replacing sheathing, adding bracing or working in a fire hazard zone may bring added requirements. Ask your building department before you start.
Should I replace all the siding at once?
Not necessarily. If the bulk of the siding is sound, replacing only the damaged areas in kind keeps more original material. A full replacement makes more sense when damage is widespread or when you plan to insulate and brace the walls.
Related reading
Eichler Carports, Entry Courts and Blank Street Walls Explained
Wildfire Home Hardening for Hillside Mid-Century Homes in California
Weighing siding work on a mid-century home you own or plan to buy? Call or text the Boyenga Team, Silicon Valley's Property Nerds® at Compass, at (408) 373-1660 or (650) 383-8606, or contact the Boyenga Team.
